To make the seam as invisible as possible, sew it like this making my progress upwards on the inside of the fabric. Waxed linen thread (35/2) or a thin 2-ply wool thread are my favourite choices, but for an upper-class garment silk is also an option. Here you can see the bottom of the gore where I start, and the waxed linen thread going in from under the folded seam allowance to hide the knot. Start sewing from the outside, with a version of the whip stitch. If you are a bit new to hand-sewing, working on the inside might be easier, but you can also do this from the front/outside of the dress. Press the sides (the seam allowance) of the cut on the inside/wrong side of the dress. Start with cutting up the back panel, make it around 1,5 cm shorter than the side of your gore. Let’s start with my favourite way of inserting gores! With this method, you will always get a gore that looks nice and ends in a smooth top. Here’s an old post about a recreated Herjolfnes dress. The pattern? Here is a tutorial on how to make one. This post is a step-by-step on inserting gores in a garment, like front and back gores, small sleeve gores and gores for a hood. Remember my latest spring green wool dress? I took lots of photos during the process so I could show you how I made it, and share some great hand sewing tip if you want to hand sew a garment yourself. You can use linen fabric scraps: cut it in a straight piece, fold in the raw edges and sew in place with whip stitches or slip stitches. I always use a piece of fabric on the inside (if I don’t have a whole lining in place) to strengthen the edge and make the lacing look better. On the inside of the lacing, you can see a thin strip of tabby woven, sturdy linen fabric. Practise makes perfect don’t bother if your first holes are a bit uneven, if you start from the bottom and work your way up they will look really nice by the time you reach the area others actually look at.Ī tip for making the hole more even is to first sew one round of stitching around the hole, and then another turn, dense enough to cover any gaps. Yeah…Īfter the hole is made the right size, I sew around it with a buttonhole silk thread or a waxed linen thread (depending on social status, period, colour etc) I never bother with any fancy stitch, just sew around like this, and cover the hole equally with thread. I do have real awls, but since they seem to always be “somewhere else” a bunch of different objects has been used needle binding needles, hairpins, chopsticks… You don’t need anything fancy, was my conclusion. To make lacing holes I use a sharp awl to make a small hole, and then a fitting thicker awl in metal, wood or bone to make the hole bigger. Here is a step to step guide on how I do: The easiest way to make well-fitted sleeve gores is to cut out a piece of fabric, pin/baste it on the inside of the assembled garment, and sew it in place. Maybe an adjustment to add space to a new wearer that had more mass over arms and shoulders? The principle is the same fitting the sleeve into the armhole and then adding as much gore as you need to make the sleeve ”whole”.Īn example of how this method was used during the medieval period is the Moy Bog dress, which has a similar gore. This guide shows you how to put in a gore in a cut slit at the front of the sleeve, but you can also add gores to the seam on an S-shaped sleeve. Gores might be inserted while making your garment, but also afterwards if you feel a need to adjust the fit. To add movability by cutting the gore on another grain than the rest of the sleeve. To save fabric while cutting out your fabric pieces. Gores might have several reasons to be where they are: Depending on the placement of the gore in the sleeve, it will add space to different effects, like moving your arm up and forward or adjusting your sleeve to larger muscles in your arms. A gusset is a square piece of fabric, sewn into the armpit to add movability and space, used on shifts and shirts to take a few examples.Ī gore inserted in your sleeve will add space and freedom of movement. In this tutorial, a gore is a triangular-shaped piece of fabric sewn into the garment.
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